Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Trumpet cases
My daughter has been selected to play with her school band in the big city next month. I’m so proud of her, all those time spent learning the trumpet has finally paid off and she loves it. I need to get proper trumpet cases for all three of her trumpets that she’ll be taking with her. Normal suitcases just don’t cut it so an investment in good quality trumpet cases is a good investment.
Strawberries
Ever since they came into cultivation thousands of years ago, strawberries have been in demand as an all-year-round available fruit because of their luscious flavour, as well as having high nutritional value. They are delicious eaten directly from the plant.
Strawberries are grown from the sub Polar Regions to the tropics, and belong to the Rosaceae family, which also includes roses, plums, apricots and apples. Although all the flowers are similar the fruit of the strawberry is quite different. The main difference is that the seeds are on the outside of the fruit, rather than being encased in flesh in the middle of the fruit. When it is the middle of winter in the south of Australia, it is harvest time in the north in Queensland.
Large sized strawberries are renowned for having no flavour. These varieties have now been replaced with new cultivars that have all the desirable qualities that are demanded of a strawberry - large fruit that is full of flavour are the two most important qualities that home gardeners and commercial growers are looking for. As well they want cultivars where the fruit is abundant and easy to find on the plant. Strawberry ‘Redlands Joy’ has red flesh all the way through to the middle, and is beautiful and sweet to taste. For those who live on the north coast the varieties ‘Kabarla’ and ‘Adina’ will grow well, while in the Sydney region ‘Sweetheart’, ‘Selekta’ and ‘Torrey’ are best. ‘Kunowase’ and ‘Cambridge Rival’ are two good cultivars that grow well in Victoria and Tasmania. ‘Alinta’ is an excellent, highly recommended variety for southern gardens.
To grow strawberries well soil preparation is essential. This requires copious amounts of a good organic fertiliser that has high levels of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash dug in well. Plant the runners into raised beds 30 cm apart. As soon as the plants start to flower, spray them with high potash liquid fertiliser, which will help the fruit to develop a beautiful sweet flavour. By March in the following year these plants will have developed new runners. In warmer climates like Queensland the plants should be treated as an annual, as the plants get tired more quickly. The old plants should be taken out and new runners replanted.
Strawberries are grown from the sub Polar Regions to the tropics, and belong to the Rosaceae family, which also includes roses, plums, apricots and apples. Although all the flowers are similar the fruit of the strawberry is quite different. The main difference is that the seeds are on the outside of the fruit, rather than being encased in flesh in the middle of the fruit. When it is the middle of winter in the south of Australia, it is harvest time in the north in Queensland.
Large sized strawberries are renowned for having no flavour. These varieties have now been replaced with new cultivars that have all the desirable qualities that are demanded of a strawberry - large fruit that is full of flavour are the two most important qualities that home gardeners and commercial growers are looking for. As well they want cultivars where the fruit is abundant and easy to find on the plant. Strawberry ‘Redlands Joy’ has red flesh all the way through to the middle, and is beautiful and sweet to taste. For those who live on the north coast the varieties ‘Kabarla’ and ‘Adina’ will grow well, while in the Sydney region ‘Sweetheart’, ‘Selekta’ and ‘Torrey’ are best. ‘Kunowase’ and ‘Cambridge Rival’ are two good cultivars that grow well in Victoria and Tasmania. ‘Alinta’ is an excellent, highly recommended variety for southern gardens.
To grow strawberries well soil preparation is essential. This requires copious amounts of a good organic fertiliser that has high levels of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash dug in well. Plant the runners into raised beds 30 cm apart. As soon as the plants start to flower, spray them with high potash liquid fertiliser, which will help the fruit to develop a beautiful sweet flavour. By March in the following year these plants will have developed new runners. In warmer climates like Queensland the plants should be treated as an annual, as the plants get tired more quickly. The old plants should be taken out and new runners replanted.
Trophies
Following my excellent organization of the club’s anniversary I was asked to organize another event; my child’s school sports day! I need to source some trophies for the winners and I know just the place to get them at fantastic prices. I’m getting really good at this; maybe I should start a business organizing events for people. I’ll probably go broke doing that so I’ll stick to my day job.
Milk Fungicide
Some organic gardeners have been using milk as a fungal control for decades, but it has only been in recent years that it has been looked at seriously as an effective and safe control of powdery mildew on some garden plants.
University of Adelaide research is exploring its potency. Grape vines have been the main crop that Peter Crisp used as part of his trials during a three-year research project, but he has also used milk spray on roses, zucchinis and tomatoes where it has been very successful in combating powdery mildew. A dilution anywhere between 1:5 and 1:10 milk to water is adequate, but if it is much stronger than that it can cause problems like sooty mould. Low fat milk is less effective than full cream milk, but the difference is not really significant. There are various compounds that are active in milk including the fats. The natural antibiotics present in milk, as well as the production of other agents during exposure to sunlight both act to reduce fungal infection.
For it to work effectively it must be used regularly at seven to 10 days intervals, or every fortnight if it is hot. The most important thing is to get a good even coverage over all of the leaves. One of the great advantages of milk fungicide is that you don’t need any protective gear for spraying.
University of Adelaide research is exploring its potency. Grape vines have been the main crop that Peter Crisp used as part of his trials during a three-year research project, but he has also used milk spray on roses, zucchinis and tomatoes where it has been very successful in combating powdery mildew. A dilution anywhere between 1:5 and 1:10 milk to water is adequate, but if it is much stronger than that it can cause problems like sooty mould. Low fat milk is less effective than full cream milk, but the difference is not really significant. There are various compounds that are active in milk including the fats. The natural antibiotics present in milk, as well as the production of other agents during exposure to sunlight both act to reduce fungal infection.
For it to work effectively it must be used regularly at seven to 10 days intervals, or every fortnight if it is hot. The most important thing is to get a good even coverage over all of the leaves. One of the great advantages of milk fungicide is that you don’t need any protective gear for spraying.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Ski pants
We’re going to Aspen next week and I’m not even ready yet. So much to do with so little time. I have to get ski pants, boots, parkas and ski masks. What else? Oh yes, gloves and ski equipments too. And book the tickets also or we’re not going anywhere! Should have been more organised but with heavy workload I just didn’t have much time to organise my ski vacation this year.
Celery
There are several cultivars of Celery Apium graveolens var. dulce, which are very similar. The only thing that will influence your choice is the planting season; so get advice from a local seed retailer.
Close relatives, Celeriac Apium graveolens var. rapaceum is grown for its celery-flavoured root, while Florence Fennel Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum is grown for its aniseed-flavoured bulb.
Common fennel has a similar growth habit to celery. The stems are buried deep within the above ground parts of the plant, being hidden by the fleshy leaf petioles upon which the feathery foliage is borne.
Celery has a very shallow root system, and needs frequent watering because the roots are concentrated in the top few centimetres of soil and so they will dry out quickly.
What we commonly call the stem of the celery plant, the part that we eat, is actually the petiole from which the leaves grow. If you pull celery apart, it can be observed that the stem is in the centre of the plant near the roots at the base of the plant. It will continue to grow to form a stem and flowers, which will set seed. It is too tough to eat at this stage.
It is possible to grow celery in almost any soil type, but it prefers friable loamy soil. It will grow in sand but much more nutrition and water will be required. Celery prefers to grow in the mid seasons of spring and autumn. It does not like the hot temperatures of summer or the very cold ones of winter. During the summer during its most rapid growing time, it takes about 10 to 12 weeks to reach maturity, and during the winter it takes about 18 weeks to reach maturity from transplanting into the field. It needs two or three applications of nitrogen and potassium during the life of the crop. Celery puts on 70% of its growth in the last 30% of its life.
Planting celery in blocks of plants encourages the stems to grow longer, fleshier and slightly lighter making them less bitter. If you are selecting celery in the supermarket, the bunch should be a good bright, glossy green and should be very turgid. The stems should be very firm in your hand, which will ensure that it will be crisp and have the best flavour.
Close relatives, Celeriac Apium graveolens var. rapaceum is grown for its celery-flavoured root, while Florence Fennel Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum is grown for its aniseed-flavoured bulb.
Common fennel has a similar growth habit to celery. The stems are buried deep within the above ground parts of the plant, being hidden by the fleshy leaf petioles upon which the feathery foliage is borne.
Celery has a very shallow root system, and needs frequent watering because the roots are concentrated in the top few centimetres of soil and so they will dry out quickly.
What we commonly call the stem of the celery plant, the part that we eat, is actually the petiole from which the leaves grow. If you pull celery apart, it can be observed that the stem is in the centre of the plant near the roots at the base of the plant. It will continue to grow to form a stem and flowers, which will set seed. It is too tough to eat at this stage.
It is possible to grow celery in almost any soil type, but it prefers friable loamy soil. It will grow in sand but much more nutrition and water will be required. Celery prefers to grow in the mid seasons of spring and autumn. It does not like the hot temperatures of summer or the very cold ones of winter. During the summer during its most rapid growing time, it takes about 10 to 12 weeks to reach maturity, and during the winter it takes about 18 weeks to reach maturity from transplanting into the field. It needs two or three applications of nitrogen and potassium during the life of the crop. Celery puts on 70% of its growth in the last 30% of its life.
Planting celery in blocks of plants encourages the stems to grow longer, fleshier and slightly lighter making them less bitter. If you are selecting celery in the supermarket, the bunch should be a good bright, glossy green and should be very turgid. The stems should be very firm in your hand, which will ensure that it will be crisp and have the best flavour.
Plus size maternity clothes
This morning my wife dragged me out to the mall even before the shops were open. She had to get some plus size maternity clothes for her cousin who’s pregnant again at a later age. It was totally unexpected but the whole family is happy with the good news. Looks like we’re having an extra present under the Christmas tree this year.
Asian Vegetables
Over the last two decades our strong and growing connection with Asia has had a large influence on the food we eat today. A huge variety of Asian vegetables are available in the marketplace and are helping us to expand our culinary exploits. Their distinctive flavours combine well more traditional Australian foods. Many of the plants originate from tropical parts of Asia, particularly China where they have been cultivated and used for centuries.
Many of these plants have strong and distinctive flavours and are often quick growing, tender and have a variety of parts of the plant that can be used. Like many ingredients in Asian cuisine, nothing is wasted. Many of the plants have parts (leaves, flower heads) that can be periodically plucked without disturbing the whole plant. Some of these varieties are ready to harvest in as little as six weeks from sowing and many can be cut and a used throughout the growing season
Some varieties of Asian herbs and vegetables are becoming available in punnets, but they are very easy to grow from seed. Most varieties don’t like to be transplanted so it is a good idea to sow that seed directly. They need to be grown in areas of at least six hours of direct sunlight. In cooler areas most varieties can be planted in autumn or spring once any risk of frost has disappeared. In tropical areas Asian vegetables are a winter crop, so the seed is sown in autumn. When thinning out the seedlings don't throw them away as they are great used in soups and stir-frys. Coriander it is best grown in the shade as it goes to seed more quickly in full sun.
Many of these plants have strong and distinctive flavours and are often quick growing, tender and have a variety of parts of the plant that can be used. Like many ingredients in Asian cuisine, nothing is wasted. Many of the plants have parts (leaves, flower heads) that can be periodically plucked without disturbing the whole plant. Some of these varieties are ready to harvest in as little as six weeks from sowing and many can be cut and a used throughout the growing season
Some varieties of Asian herbs and vegetables are becoming available in punnets, but they are very easy to grow from seed. Most varieties don’t like to be transplanted so it is a good idea to sow that seed directly. They need to be grown in areas of at least six hours of direct sunlight. In cooler areas most varieties can be planted in autumn or spring once any risk of frost has disappeared. In tropical areas Asian vegetables are a winter crop, so the seed is sown in autumn. When thinning out the seedlings don't throw them away as they are great used in soups and stir-frys. Coriander it is best grown in the shade as it goes to seed more quickly in full sun.
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Everett Gaskins Hancock
I’ve been in business for quite a number of years now but I’ve never seen times quite as bad as we have now. It seems like the only people making money now are the lawyers. I’ve just finished a lengthy court case against a former client but it looks like I’m going to need help from the everett gaskins hancock lawyers again with another client bellying up. I’ve had good results from these lawyers so I’d recommend them to anyone needing a lawyer for their business litigations.
Lemons, Limes & Cumquats
There are an enormous variety of fruits in the citrus family, many not commonly grown by home gardeners, but they grow extremely well in all areas of Australia from the tropics to the cooler, more temperate areas. Not all are used for their juice, but some like the Bergamot Orange Citrus bergamia is only used for its fragrance. It contains a rich essential oil that is the basis of Eau de Cologne. Others like the Buddha’s Hand Citrus Medica is used specifically for its zest in cooking and confectionary.
It is the lemons, limes and cumquats that are most often grown. Lemons are the most popular citrus that is grown in home gardens from the tropical regions to cold areas. The Lisbon Lemon Citrus limon ‘Lisbon’ is a favourite cultivar in a Mediterranean climate for alkaline soils. They are mostly grafted onto the rootstock of a rough lemon, and will give three crops a year, with only a short gap in January/February where the tree won’t have any lemons at all. The blossoms have a very strong fragrance and will frequently be flowering and fruiting at the same time. This variety can’t always be grown in all areas. Meyer Lemon Citrus Limon ‘Meyer’ is easier to grow in the cooler regions and Eureka Lemon Citrus Limon ‘Eureka’ is a better variety for humid areas. Good drainage is essential no matter what region a lemon is grown. Growing them in a raised bed or on a slope can improve an otherwise poorly drained area. After 10 or 15 year the tree may be too high to pick the fruit comfortably, so it is a good practice to keep them pruned to a height where the top of the tree is easy to reach. A Variegated Lisbon Lemon has ornamental foliage and smaller fruit that is not quite as prolific.
The Caffre Lime Citrus hystrix has become the most popular lime in Australia over the last couple of years. It is grown exclusively for the leaf, which is used as flavouring in Thai cooking. The fruits are extremely sour and not edible, but the plant makes an excellent container plant. They are very easy to grow if they are kept trimmed and are fed twice a year in spring and summer with a slow-release fertiliser. The West Indian Lime Citrus aurantifolia is smaller than the Tahitian Lime. It has a fruit with seeds but it has the best lime flavour and is widely grown and consumed in the tropics, whereas the Tahitian lime has smaller, thin-skinned seedless, very juicy fruit. The West Indian Lime is grown here at the edge of its geographical tolerance, so it is grown on a compatible rootstock, which is rough lemon. The Rangpur Lime Citrus x limonia has a large juicy fruit, almost orange with green seeds. This fruit has an interesting aftertaste.
Nagami Cumquat Fortunella margarita can be eaten whole, including the skin, unlike the Calamondin Citrus madurensis, which is incredibly sour and not one that can be eaten fresh. Chinotto Citrus myrtifolia is one of the most ornamental species that has pendulous branches with very glossy leaves, with fruit that turns bright orange when ripe, but also with fruit too sour to be eaten fresh. These are all best grown in a warm protected area. For a colder climate the Limequat Citrus aurantifolia x Fortunella margarita is an ideal hybrid with delicious fruit.
All of these varieties can be grown in containers, but should be given adequate amounts of fertiliser and they will provide tasty fruit as well as being a beautiful decorative feature.
It is the lemons, limes and cumquats that are most often grown. Lemons are the most popular citrus that is grown in home gardens from the tropical regions to cold areas. The Lisbon Lemon Citrus limon ‘Lisbon’ is a favourite cultivar in a Mediterranean climate for alkaline soils. They are mostly grafted onto the rootstock of a rough lemon, and will give three crops a year, with only a short gap in January/February where the tree won’t have any lemons at all. The blossoms have a very strong fragrance and will frequently be flowering and fruiting at the same time. This variety can’t always be grown in all areas. Meyer Lemon Citrus Limon ‘Meyer’ is easier to grow in the cooler regions and Eureka Lemon Citrus Limon ‘Eureka’ is a better variety for humid areas. Good drainage is essential no matter what region a lemon is grown. Growing them in a raised bed or on a slope can improve an otherwise poorly drained area. After 10 or 15 year the tree may be too high to pick the fruit comfortably, so it is a good practice to keep them pruned to a height where the top of the tree is easy to reach. A Variegated Lisbon Lemon has ornamental foliage and smaller fruit that is not quite as prolific.
The Caffre Lime Citrus hystrix has become the most popular lime in Australia over the last couple of years. It is grown exclusively for the leaf, which is used as flavouring in Thai cooking. The fruits are extremely sour and not edible, but the plant makes an excellent container plant. They are very easy to grow if they are kept trimmed and are fed twice a year in spring and summer with a slow-release fertiliser. The West Indian Lime Citrus aurantifolia is smaller than the Tahitian Lime. It has a fruit with seeds but it has the best lime flavour and is widely grown and consumed in the tropics, whereas the Tahitian lime has smaller, thin-skinned seedless, very juicy fruit. The West Indian Lime is grown here at the edge of its geographical tolerance, so it is grown on a compatible rootstock, which is rough lemon. The Rangpur Lime Citrus x limonia has a large juicy fruit, almost orange with green seeds. This fruit has an interesting aftertaste.
Nagami Cumquat Fortunella margarita can be eaten whole, including the skin, unlike the Calamondin Citrus madurensis, which is incredibly sour and not one that can be eaten fresh. Chinotto Citrus myrtifolia is one of the most ornamental species that has pendulous branches with very glossy leaves, with fruit that turns bright orange when ripe, but also with fruit too sour to be eaten fresh. These are all best grown in a warm protected area. For a colder climate the Limequat Citrus aurantifolia x Fortunella margarita is an ideal hybrid with delicious fruit.
All of these varieties can be grown in containers, but should be given adequate amounts of fertiliser and they will provide tasty fruit as well as being a beautiful decorative feature.
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Guitar songs
If you ask me what my regret is in my life I’d say not learning to play the guitar. I love listening to guitar songs and I regret not learning to play it when I was growing up. Yes I know it is never too late to learn but I have absolutely no creative juices in me to be able to learn guitar playing. I think you’re born with musical talent and sadly I wasn’t born with it.
Seeds vs Seedlings
Most of our plants began life as a tiny seed, and this particularly true when it comes to flowering annuals and vegetables. Today there is the option of growing plants directly from seed or buying ready-grown seedlings. There are advantages and disadvantages of both.
Seeds vary in size from large ones like avocado and some beans, to the very minute seeds of lettuces and pansies. Small seeds must be placed on the surface of the seed-raising mix because if they are covered too thickly they will not germinate. Other seeds like sweet corn are planted at twice the depth of the thickness of the seed itself, and that is the basic rule to follow with all seeds.
When buying seed-raising mix make sure that it has been especially formulated for the purpose, with not too much air-filled porosity and the correct level of moisture-holding capacity. The surface should be levelled and firmed with a flat piece of wood or similar object, in preparation for sowing.
Seeds can be planted directly in the garden bed, or in seed-raising mix to plant the seedlings in the garden at a later time. If a small amount of Epsom salts is added to water, when applied to the soil the magnesium in it will help the plant to activate the enzymes that breaks down the food supply in the seed. A light misting is adequate. Too much water will rot the seeds. A covering of perlite will absorb moisture as well as provide an insulating layer and aid in germination.
There are several options when planting seeds in the ground. Some seed companies are supplying a length of tape that is impregnated with seed such as radish that is evenly spaced. The tape is laid out in a straight line as a row, and the seeds will germinate at regular intervals.
Many gardeners are also interested in heirloom and heritage seeds. Some are available from nurseries and garden centres supply a variety of these, but to get open pollinated varieties you may need to contact an organic growers group to get home-saved seed, or contact a seed savers network.
If you grow a lot of F1 hybrids, the chances are that the seeds will not be viable, so new seeds will have to be purchased otherwise seedlings can be used. Although seedlings cost a little bit more they save a lot of time. It generally takes 10 to 14 days for seedlings to germinate and come through the ground, and then another 2 to 3 weeks for them to develop some size as young plants. The germination rate of parsley is so poor that it is better to leave it to someone else’s propagating skills. Begonias also have a poor germination rate as well as the seeds being very expensive.
When buying seedlings, you are often confronted with a choice of very small plants or tall, leggy ones. The temptation is to buy the big ones thinking that they will be better, but this is not the case. The small seedlings will easily outgrow the larger ones, as well as being much stronger plants.
When planting seedlings into the garden care must be taken not to crush the stems, as this is the route of transportation of nutrients to the plant. Hold the plants by the leaves and ease them out so that you don’t damage the root system. After planting them in the ground, water them in with a seaweed extract, because the vitamin B1 will help the seedlings overcome transplant shock.
Seeds are cheaper but seedlings are quicker, so it is just a matter of personal choice.
Seeds vary in size from large ones like avocado and some beans, to the very minute seeds of lettuces and pansies. Small seeds must be placed on the surface of the seed-raising mix because if they are covered too thickly they will not germinate. Other seeds like sweet corn are planted at twice the depth of the thickness of the seed itself, and that is the basic rule to follow with all seeds.
When buying seed-raising mix make sure that it has been especially formulated for the purpose, with not too much air-filled porosity and the correct level of moisture-holding capacity. The surface should be levelled and firmed with a flat piece of wood or similar object, in preparation for sowing.
Seeds can be planted directly in the garden bed, or in seed-raising mix to plant the seedlings in the garden at a later time. If a small amount of Epsom salts is added to water, when applied to the soil the magnesium in it will help the plant to activate the enzymes that breaks down the food supply in the seed. A light misting is adequate. Too much water will rot the seeds. A covering of perlite will absorb moisture as well as provide an insulating layer and aid in germination.
There are several options when planting seeds in the ground. Some seed companies are supplying a length of tape that is impregnated with seed such as radish that is evenly spaced. The tape is laid out in a straight line as a row, and the seeds will germinate at regular intervals.
Many gardeners are also interested in heirloom and heritage seeds. Some are available from nurseries and garden centres supply a variety of these, but to get open pollinated varieties you may need to contact an organic growers group to get home-saved seed, or contact a seed savers network.
If you grow a lot of F1 hybrids, the chances are that the seeds will not be viable, so new seeds will have to be purchased otherwise seedlings can be used. Although seedlings cost a little bit more they save a lot of time. It generally takes 10 to 14 days for seedlings to germinate and come through the ground, and then another 2 to 3 weeks for them to develop some size as young plants. The germination rate of parsley is so poor that it is better to leave it to someone else’s propagating skills. Begonias also have a poor germination rate as well as the seeds being very expensive.
When buying seedlings, you are often confronted with a choice of very small plants or tall, leggy ones. The temptation is to buy the big ones thinking that they will be better, but this is not the case. The small seedlings will easily outgrow the larger ones, as well as being much stronger plants.
When planting seedlings into the garden care must be taken not to crush the stems, as this is the route of transportation of nutrients to the plant. Hold the plants by the leaves and ease them out so that you don’t damage the root system. After planting them in the ground, water them in with a seaweed extract, because the vitamin B1 will help the seedlings overcome transplant shock.
Seeds are cheaper but seedlings are quicker, so it is just a matter of personal choice.
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Increase signal
The problem with my work is I get a lot of calls from clients and my work place doesn’t have very good cell phone reception. I’m asking the boss to invest in a device that will increase signal in the office thus no one has to keep ducking out of the office just to take calls from the clients. I hope the boss will see sense in it and get us the signal booster. He’ll have to if he wants the sales.
Asian herbs and vegetables
Some varieties of Asian herbs and vegetables are becoming available in punnets, but they are very easy to grow from seed. Most varieties don’t like to be transplanted so it is a good idea to sow that seed directly. They need to be grown in areas of at least six hours of direct sunlight. In cooler areas most varieties can be planted in autumn or spring once any risk of frost has disappeared. In tropical areas Asian vegetables are a winter crop, so the seed is sown in autumn. When thinning out the seedlings don't throw them away as they are great used in soups and stir-frys. Coriander it is best grown in the shade as it goes to seed more quickly in full sun.
Some Asian vegetables to grow are: Pak Choi and Bok Choi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese White Cabbage), Tatsoi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese Flat Cabbage), Kintsai Apium graveolens (Chinese celery), Mizuna & Mibuna Brassica rapa Japonica (Japanese salad greens, Garlic chives Alllium tuberosum, Coriander Coriandrum sativum, Garland Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum coronarium var. spatiosum.
Some Asian vegetables to grow are: Pak Choi and Bok Choi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese White Cabbage), Tatsoi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese Flat Cabbage), Kintsai Apium graveolens (Chinese celery), Mizuna & Mibuna Brassica rapa Japonica (Japanese salad greens, Garlic chives Alllium tuberosum, Coriander Coriandrum sativum, Garland Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum coronarium var. spatiosum.
Friday, November 18, 2011
Roadside assistance plan
Oops! I think I’ve let my roadside assistance plan lapse. I’ve better check to make sure; I’m going to need it when I go on my road trip next month. Nothing worse than getting stranded in the middle of nowhere with no help for miles. Once that’s taken care of all I have to worry about is planning the trip; there are so many places I want to go but I might not be able to visit all the places. I’m going to need more time!
Potting mixtures
There are a variety of potting mixtures. Those designed for terracotta pots are full of organic matter to retain a lot of moisture. Some potting mixes are unusual such as the lumps of bark used to pot a particular type of orchid (Cymbidium) that grows on tree trunks and lives on the moisture and nutrients that run down the bark. This orchid would not survive in ordinary potting mix or soil because it needs excellent drainage that is provided by the coarse bark.
You can make your own potting soil. Start with garden soil, add coarse river sand to create a free-draining soil and coca fibre to retain some of the water. These components should be in a ratio of one third of each. This soil won’t go hard and the roots can penetrate it easily.
The soil used for raising seeds is different. Seedling raising mixes are pasteurised to remove all the organisms such as harmful bacteria and fungi. This is different to sterilisation which kills all living organisms in the soil.
Remember when handling potting and seed-raising mixes be careful as it may cause irritations or respiratory problems especially if you have allergies, or are susceptible.
You can make your own potting soil. Start with garden soil, add coarse river sand to create a free-draining soil and coca fibre to retain some of the water. These components should be in a ratio of one third of each. This soil won’t go hard and the roots can penetrate it easily.
The soil used for raising seeds is different. Seedling raising mixes are pasteurised to remove all the organisms such as harmful bacteria and fungi. This is different to sterilisation which kills all living organisms in the soil.
Remember when handling potting and seed-raising mixes be careful as it may cause irritations or respiratory problems especially if you have allergies, or are susceptible.
Wednesday, November 09, 2011
Best buy coupons
I’m not one to pay retail prices for the things I like. That’s why I’m always keeping a look out for good deals like best buy coupons that will save me a bundle whenever use them. There’s no limit to the things you can save with these coupons and I always recommend or even give some of my coupons to friends and family so we can all save.
Fruit Tree Planting
Deciduous trees can be planted out from a container at virtually any time of the year, but the best time is when the plant is dormant. The first thing to do when buying a tree is to look at the root system. The roots have usually been cut back so that the tree can be carried around. Thus the roots are relatively small compared to the height of the plant. It is also important to look at the grafting union on the stem to see if it has been damaged.
Inspect the roots and cut off any damaged ones. Immediately, place the plant in a bucket of water containing a small amount of seaweed concentrate to keep the roots moist and supply the plant with minerals.
You will need a wooden stake to provide the tree with support until it becomes established. Dig a wide hole. This is important because you do not want the roots to be bent. Once dug, take the plant and test the hole for depth and width. Position the plant so that the roots are just below the soil surface. If the hole is too deep fill it in a little.
Once the hole is the correct dimensions, position the tree and tie it loosely to the stake. Then begin backfilling around the roots with a mixture of mushroom compost, soil and peat to hold in the moisture. Make sure that there are no air pockets by gently shaking the stem so that the soil filters down thought the roots. Then fill in the rest and secure the plant to a stake.
After planting you must restore the balance between the shoot system and the root system by pruning the stems so that they are in proportion to the roots. The way you prune will depend on the shape of the tree that you want. If you want the tree to grow into a vase shape, then cut out the main stem and the smaller branches will fan out. Alternatively you can have a christmas tree shape with a dominant stem. To achieve this, prune the lateral shoots back at a bud that is pointing upwards. Next remove all the leaders bar one so that you have a single dominant stem. This leader can be tipped later on when necessary. Lastly, mulch around the tree, keeping it away from the trunk. This will reduce weed growth.
Inspect the roots and cut off any damaged ones. Immediately, place the plant in a bucket of water containing a small amount of seaweed concentrate to keep the roots moist and supply the plant with minerals.
You will need a wooden stake to provide the tree with support until it becomes established. Dig a wide hole. This is important because you do not want the roots to be bent. Once dug, take the plant and test the hole for depth and width. Position the plant so that the roots are just below the soil surface. If the hole is too deep fill it in a little.
Once the hole is the correct dimensions, position the tree and tie it loosely to the stake. Then begin backfilling around the roots with a mixture of mushroom compost, soil and peat to hold in the moisture. Make sure that there are no air pockets by gently shaking the stem so that the soil filters down thought the roots. Then fill in the rest and secure the plant to a stake.
After planting you must restore the balance between the shoot system and the root system by pruning the stems so that they are in proportion to the roots. The way you prune will depend on the shape of the tree that you want. If you want the tree to grow into a vase shape, then cut out the main stem and the smaller branches will fan out. Alternatively you can have a christmas tree shape with a dominant stem. To achieve this, prune the lateral shoots back at a bud that is pointing upwards. Next remove all the leaders bar one so that you have a single dominant stem. This leader can be tipped later on when necessary. Lastly, mulch around the tree, keeping it away from the trunk. This will reduce weed growth.
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)
